Small Scale Textile Production in Wales: Exploring issues of sustainability

Abstract

This paper will report on doctoral research that has explored the role of design in sustainable development. The research question, ‘What is the role of design in sustainable development?’ has been examined in the context of the Welsh textile industry, the Welsh devolved Government being one of very few globally to have a legal remit to the promotion of sustainable development (Welsh Assembly Government, 2009). A particular concern has been the definition of sustainable development and various models have been critiqued, including the often used ‘three pillar’ model in which aspect of economic, environmental and social activity are taken together to represent ‘sustainability’ or ‘sustainable development’ (Blewitt, 2008; Elkington, 2001; Elliott, 2006; World Commission on & Development, 1987). However, the vision of ‘a sustainable Wales’ in which the local production of low carbon and low waste goods is envisaged (Welsh Assembly Government, 2009, pp. 20-23) forms a useful model against which to assess the impact of the textile producers in the study. I argue that their production fits this vision as they produce textiles with low environmental impact (Blackburn, 2008), that have a long life (Cooper, 2010) and large cultural and emotional significance (Chapman, 2005; Zeisel, 2004).

A case study approach was taken to the research (Denscombe, 2007; Yin, 2003), data being collected and analysed from thirteen cases. Among these, a variety of production methods is found from artisan mill production to individual craft makers, bringing a broad perspective to the discussion.

The case studies provide a rich source of material from which to explore relevant themes, the paper discussing many issues of relevance to the of the conference including:

• The typology of the producers; are they designers, makers, Craftspeople or craftspeople (Ferris, 2011; Lupton, 2005; Potter, 1989)?
• The role of the producer/maker/craftsperson as entrepreneur, specialist, innovator and maker of sustainable livelihood (Chambers & Conway, 1991).
• The role of the textile producer as an agent of social sustainability and community development; what does that mean in this context?
• The role of the producer as holder and purveyor of tradition (Hobsbawm & Ranger, 1983) in producing textiles that use a recognisably Welsh aesthetic (Blodwen, 2011; Elle Decoration, 2006).
• The role of the textile producer/craftsperson as agent of environmental protection, as evidenced in the case study research (Black, 2008; Fletcher, 2008).

However, issues for further discussion arise around the measurement and assessment of these activities; currently, only economic measures are reliable at the level of the individual. Issues of measuring micro environmental impact, the geographical extent of this impact and issues of measurement of social impact are all contentious or unavailable, despite the existence of national systems that attempt to assess and measure these phenomena (Bell & Morse, 2003; Welsh Assembly Government, 2010).

The paper argues that the textile producers, whether categorised as ‘Craftspeople’ or ‘craftspeople’, although working at a small scale, contribute to sustainability in all its aspects within their chosen location, Wales. Their activities can also be posited as models of potential modes of production in a post industrial location within a global economy.