Felt-making in Kyrgyzstan: the past 20 years

Abstract

This paper explores the transformations in felt-making practices among Kyrgyz women felt-makers over the past 20 years since independence during the transition from living under Soviet rule to the global economy. I recently heard one Kyrgyz entrepreneur exclaim, ‘But this is a real felt, she made it for herself,’ spoken within the context of being shown around Kyrgyz NGO felt-makers who were making quilted felt shyrdaks (mosaic felt rugs) for sale on the global market to tourists and for possible export. This comment of course begs the question, ‘What is a real felt?’ And why should making it for oneself make it so?
Kyrgyz felt-making, during my first fieldwork in the region in the early 1990’s, was largely made at home. Felt was already rarely made by young women, so it was also more often found in the homes of people’s grandmothers, although women did still make felt to give to daughters for weddings, and for gifts to others. This was, you could argue, really a ‘labour of love’. Great experts were feted by Soviet officials, even given medals, and some of their felts were sold in tourist shops, but by and large, felt shyrdak making was a domestic affair.

Twenty years later, there has been a felt renaissance. Seen as a marker of indigeneity, and an avenue for possible income, felt shyrdak making has been seized upon by local groups who have been encouraged to form NGO’s to make these time-consuming felt textiles for export. This is especially so in rural areas.
Over time, groups have established links with foreign markets, been awarded UNESCO certificates of quality, invited to the markets in Santa Fé in the USA or to the ‘Emirates’ and built up reputations and orders. Ironically, the innovation and creativity this has encouraged is seen not so much in the quality of the felt textiles produced for sale, which have often become smaller, more uniform, with less attention to detail, but rather in the ingenuity of women’s husbands or relatives who have developed all manner of machine from old car engines to card and roll felt to save a part of the physical labour involved.

For the younger generation and those who live in cities, this more ‘traditional’ form of working with felt is not an option. Here fashion and the possibility of individually-realized global success has called, and many younger, or older educated, women are drawing on their ancestors’ skills in felt textiles, synthesizing the woollen textiles of the old ‘felt-road’ with fabrics such as silk as new global ‘silk road links’ are re-established.

This paper examines how change and stability in Kyrgyz felt-making practices in this region contribute to our understanding of both the notion of ‘tradition’ and sustainability.