The Significance of Craft in the Development of Sustainable Textile Materials: Localism, Digital Technologies and Emotional Durability

Abstract

Current sustainability agendas in regard to textile design and production include an increased focus on local resource flows, fibre diversification (Flecthcer 2008), biodegradability (Blackburn 2005) and the use of alternative surface patterning and colouration techniques as strategies for moving forward. Within this framework there has been a renewed interest in bast fibres, such as flax, which can be cultivated in the UK (Anon 2011). These fibres provide an alternative to cotton and are biodegradable. The proposed paper presents a current practice-led research project that investigates the use of flax fibre, cultivated in Leicestershire, in combination with recycled polyester fibres, a bio-polymer called polylactic acid (PLA) and digital surface patterning techniques to create sustainable sheet materials for potential use in a range of design led applications. In doing so the project ultimately aims to foster connections between the creative industries, local material manufacturers and product users to encourage sustainable development from a socio-economic perspective.

The paper discusses; the methodology employed, the nature of the creative practice around which the project evolves, relevant theoretical frameworks and the results of the work to date. The intention within the discussion is to contribute to dialogue surrounding the significance of craft in the development of sustainable textile design practices.

Methodologically, the work is rooted in a craft approach to textile design recognising making as the fundamental driver within the project and intimate knowledge of materials, tools and processes as central to its success. It is informed by materials science and underpinned by sustainable design theory. Theoretically, notions of localism, discussions about technology as facilitator for sustainable design and ideas about emotional durability support the practice. The work could is situated in the territory of an expanded craft field as articulated in the conference themes.

The results of the project to date include textile works ‘Local Narrative’ and ‘Not-Lace’ which draw on the historic lace industry associated with Nottinghamshire to develop a narrative that engenders a connection with place and local resource flows in terms of materials, skills and creativity. ‘Local narrative’ is currently part of the Material Actions exhibition convened by Plymouth College of Art and Textile Forum Southwest which has been shown at the Viewpoint gallery Plymouth, The Centre for Contemporary Arts and the Natural World Exeter, Create Bristol and Bath Spa University. ‘Not-Lace’ is due to be shown in Textiles Research in Process (TRIP) exhibition at the Harley gallery, August – October 2011, and at the TRIP symposium, Loughborough University in November 2011.